Tokens don’t look important… until you’re in a game with six permanents that all say “create a token” and the board state turns into a pile of dice, scraps of paper, and one upside-down snack wrapper.
A good token fixes that. It makes the table faster. It prevents “wait, which one is tapped?” arguments. And it helps you remember what your deck is actually doing.
This guide covers three things:
- Which token types are worth making
- The right MTG token size (and when to break it)
- Print-ready steps so your tokens come out clean and readable
Token types to make first (so you’re not scrambling mid-game)
Before you design anything, open your decklist and answer this: what tokens do you actually create?
Most people print a stack of random tokens and still end up missing the one they need. Instead, build your “token kit” in two layers:
Layer 1: Deck-specific tokens (the ones your cards create)
These are the tokens that matter most because they’re unique to your deck’s game plan.
Common examples:
- A commander that makes a specific creature token (like Zombies, Spirits, Treasures-with-a-twist, etc.)
- “Copy” tokens (token copies of creatures or artifacts)
- Large one-off tokens (like a 5/5 Dragon, a 10/10, or a special named token)
Tip: If your deck makes variable tokens (like “X/X” or “a copy of something”), consider printing a blank template token with a big text box. Then you can write the details with a dry-erase marker.
Layer 2: “Universal” tokens you see everywhere
Even if your deck doesn’t focus on them, these show up constantly in Commander and casual play. They’re worth having on hand.
The big ones:
- Treasure
- Clue
- Food
- Blood
- Map
- Powerstone
- Gold
- Junk (less common, but it pops up)
And if you play newer sets or a lot of casual brews:
- Role tokens (like Monster, Wicked, Royal, etc.)
- Incubator (a double-faced token)
If you want a simple “starter pack,” make 12–20 tokens that cover your deck + the universal ones. That’s usually enough for real games.
MTG token sizing: what “correct” looks like (and when to go smaller)
Most MTG tokens are easiest when they are normal card size. That means:
- fits in a sleeve
- stacks cleanly
- looks right on the battlefield
- doesn’t slide around like a coin
The most common size to use
For standard card-sized tokens, use 63mm x 88mm (often listed around 2.48″ x 3.46″ depending on who’s measuring). That’s the size you’ll see referenced by major card printers and templates.
When mini tokens are better
Mini tokens are great when:
- you make lots of the same token (like 20+)
- your battlefield gets crowded
- you mainly need a “marker,” not a full card
The downside: mini tokens are harder to read across the table. If you go mini, make the name and P/T huge.
Oversized tokens and emblems
Some people like oversized cards for emblems, monarch, initiative, or reminders. That’s fine, but treat them like signage, not playing pieces:
- giant text
- high contrast
- minimal art
Designing tokens that are easy to play with
This is the part most token makers don’t tell you: pretty tokens can still be bad tokens.
Your job is clarity.
What every good token needs (minimum)
- Name (big enough to read)
- Type line (Creature — Zombie, Artifact — Treasure, etc.)
- Power/toughness if it’s a creature token
- Rules text if it matters (it usually does for artifact tokens)
- A clear art crop that doesn’t swallow the text
Make the battlefield readable
If you’re using full art:
- add a darker text plate behind rules text
- or blur the background under text
- or keep a solid bar for name/type
Low contrast is the #1 reason tokens feel annoying in real games.
Don’t get fancy with rules text
For predefined tokens like Treasure/Food/Clue/etc., the rules text is there for a reason. People forget. Or someone new is at the table. Or you’re tired.
Keep it readable. Keep it accurate.
Using an MTG token maker: a clean workflow
Most online token makers follow the same flow. If you’re using MTG Cardsmith’s token maker specifically, it’s basically:
- Pick a token frame (full art vs standard text frame)
- Upload your artwork
- Crop it in the editor
- Enter the token details and tweak until it looks right
A few practical notes that save time:
- Start with high-res art (blurry art stays blurry)
- Crop with the text box in mind (don’t put a face behind your rules text)
- Use short, consistent naming so your tokens sort cleanly in folders
Print-ready export steps (home printing)
If you’re printing at home, your goal is simple: the token prints at the right size without scaling.
Here’s the approach that works:
Step 1: Export the token image
Use the token’s “full view” / largest view you can get, then save the image.
Step 2: Place tokens onto a sheet
You can do this in:
- a doc editor (Word / Google Docs)
- a basic image editor
- a print layout tool
The key is that you control the size.
Step 3: Set the token to the correct dimensions
Set the token image size to 63mm x 88mm (or the closest equivalent your tool uses).
Avoid “Fit to page.” That’s how tokens end up slightly too large, and then your cuts drift.
Step 4: Print, cut, sleeve (optional but recommended)
If you want them to feel like real cards:
- print on thicker stock if you can
- cut cleanly
- sleeve each token with a bulk common behind it
- use opaque-backed sleeves if you’re mixing different token backs
That last part matters more than people think. It keeps your token stack consistent and avoids accidental marking.
Print-ready export steps (professional printing)
If you’re sending your tokens to a printer, you need to think like a printer for two minutes.
Use 300 DPI (minimum)
If your file is too low-res, the printer can’t “fix” it. Text edges get fuzzy. Blacks look muddy.
A good baseline is 300 DPI.
Add bleed and respect the safe area
Printers cut cards in stacks. Cuts can drift slightly. Bleed protects you from that.
A standard guideline:
- 1/8″ bleed outside the trim
- another 1/8″ safe margin inside the trim for important text
That means:
- backgrounds and borders should extend out into bleed
- text and key icons should stay comfortably inside the safe area
Use a format that doesn’t destroy text
For print files:
- PNG is a safe choice for single images
- PDF is great for sheets/layouts
- avoid over-compressed JPEGs if you can (they create ugly artifacts around text)
Common token printing mistakes (and quick fixes)
“My tokens printed the wrong size”
Cause: printing with scaling on.
Fix: set size manually and print at 100%.
“The cut looks off”
Cause: no bleed / border too tight.
Fix: expand the background, add bleed, keep text away from edges.
“Text looks fuzzy”
Cause: low-res export or tiny font.
Fix: start with higher-res art, increase font size, export at print resolution.
“Dark tokens look muddy”
Cause: heavy shadows + black borders + home printer limitations.
Fix: brighten midtones slightly and increase contrast under text.
Quick checklist: make tokens that play clean
- Print only the tokens your deck actually makes (plus a few universal ones)
- Use standard card size unless you have a clear reason not to
- Make name/type/P/T easy to read from across the table
- Export big, then size correctly when printing
- For pro printing: 300 DPI + bleed + safe margins
- Test one page before you print a whole stack
Conclusion
A token is “just a marker,” but it still affects the game. Clear tokens make turns faster. They reduce missed triggers. And they make your deck feel finished.
If you want the fastest win: build a small token kit for one deck, print one sheet, and play a night with it. You’ll immediately notice what you’re missing (and what you never needed).